Roofing Knowledge Quiz

Plan on 8,000-25,000 for an average single-family home, depending on size, pitch, and the number of layers being torn off. Simple low-pitch roofs with one layer land near the low end, while steep, multi-story roofs with multiple layers push the total up.

Metal typically runs 2-3 times the upfront price of shingles (often 15,000-40,000) because of material cost and specialized labor, but it can last 40-70 years versus 20-30 for shingles. The higher price buys a much longer service life and better hail resistance in many cases.

Roof size (squares), pitch and accessibility, the number of layers to tear off, decking repairs, and whether flashing, vents, and ice and water shield are included. Labor rates and the grade of shingles also move the total.

Minor repairs like fixing a leak, replacing a few shingles, or resealing flashing typically run 300-1,500, while a full replacement is 8,000-25,000. If damage covers a large area or the roof is near end of life, replacement is usually the smarter spend.

Over 30-40 years you will likely replace shingles once or twice, which can make metal competitive on lifetime cost despite the higher upfront price. Metal also shrugs off hail better in many cases, but the math depends on your climate, roof complexity, and insurance premiums.

Replace when shingles are curling, cracking, or losing granules across large areas, when you have had repeated leaks, or when the roof is past 20-25 years old. Repair only makes sense for isolated, recent damage on an otherwise healthy roof.

Asphalt shingles, metal, and tile all work on steep slopes. Shingles are the budget pick, metal lasts longest, and tile suits Mediterranean and Spanish styles but is heavy and may require reinforced framing.

Tear-off is almost always better: overlaying hides deck damage, traps heat, and shortens the new roof's life. Many codes cap roofs at two layers, and manufacturer warranties can be voided when new shingles go over old ones.

Yes for most homeowners: architectural shingles cost roughly 10-20% more but carry longer warranties, better wind ratings, and a dimensional look. 3-tab is now mostly a budget or simple-pattern option.

Metal is worth considering in hail-prone or wildfire zones, for owners planning to stay 30-plus years, and for anyone who wants minimal maintenance. The main drawback is the upfront cost, which can be two to three times shingles.

A state contractor's license where required, general liability insurance, and workers' compensation. Manufacturer certifications such as 'Master' or 'Elite' installer status also matter because they are tied to warranty coverage on shingle systems.

Ask how many layers they will tear off, whether decking replacement is included in the quote, what underlayment and ice and water shield they use, what the warranty terms are, and whether they will pull the permit and schedule inspections.

Without general liability and workers' compensation, you can be held liable for injuries or damage that happen during the job. Ask for a certificate of insurance before any work begins and keep it on file.

Three is the standard. It exposes the price spread, which is often 20-40%, and lets you compare scope line by line. Be wary of a quote far below the others, since it usually signals skipped materials or corner-cutting.

No. Around 10% or less up front is typical, and a large deposit or full payment before work starts is a red flag. Pay in milestones tied to progress, and never pay in cash.

Confirm it itemizes the shingle brand and model, underlayment, flashing, ice and water shield, ventilation changes, dumpster and permit fees, cleanup, and a start-and-finish date with a payment schedule. Anything vague now becomes an argument later.

There are two warranties: the manufacturer's, which covers shingle defects for 25-50 years (prorated after the first years), and the contractor's workmanship warranty, typically 1-10 years for installation defects. Get both in writing.

Check the state licensing board for complaints, read recent reviews across multiple platforms, ask for local references and visit a job in progress, and confirm they have been in business several years under the same name.

Document visible damage with photos and dates, get a roofer's written inspection, then file an insurance claim promptly. Ask the roofer to meet the adjuster on the roof so the damage findings line up.

A signed detailed contract, a certificate of insurance, manufacturer certification if applicable, and the permit if your area requires one. Keep copies for warranty claims and your home records.

Storm-chaser contractors who show up after hail or wind events, demand large deposits or insurance paperwork, do shoddy work, and leave town. Always verify a local address, a license, and references before signing anything.

A contractor offering to 'waive' or pay your deductible usually inflates the job cost to cover it, which can amount to insurance fraud. The deductible is yours to pay, and a legitimate discount shows up in the quote, not in the claim.

Decking replacement for rotted plywood, flashing and vent upgrades, permit fees, and disposal are the common ones. A low quote that never mentions these usually turns into change orders once the tear-off exposes the deck.

They rely on your insurance paying the full claim amount, and the contractor often bids whatever the adjuster allows. Read any assignment-of-benefits paperwork carefully, since it can lock you into that contractor and their terms.